We returned to Harlem and went to the Schomburg Center for Black Studies at the Public Library. We walked around and saw some displays, including a gorgeous piece of art based on Langston Hughes' "The Negro Speaks of Rivers." It was gorgeous, and Langston Hughes' ashes are buried underneath it.
We met up with a tour guide from Harlem Heritage Tours and embarked on a walking tour of Harlem. Our tour focused on both the artistic and literary accomplishments of the Harlem Renaissance, but also on the changing make up of Harlem.
A mural of some Harlem history adorns the side of Harlem Hospital.
The Countee Cullen branch of the NYPL, but once the site of a hair salon by the first female millionaire, Madame CJ Walker, an African American woman from the South.
Harlem of the 1920's was a vibrant community that attracted well educated Black people with promises of jobs and an often more welcoming environment. In the 50's and 60's when some of these people and their children moved their successful business our of Harlem it left the area as a prime ground for drugs, gangs and other dangerous elements of an inner city life. In the 70's and 80's Harlem was a very different place than it was in the 20's and than it is now.
A famous stop on the Underground Railroad
A Tree Grows in Harlem!
Harlem's buildings are protected by laws which prevent them from being pulled down, but that also meant that when people moved out and buildings were not kept up, Harlem was left with empty frames of gorgeous brownstones. In the late 80's NYC started a concerted effort to improve the area and Harlem is once again developing into a center for art and creativity. On the other hand, the high rents have changed the racial make up of the area, and have led to a mix of very expensive houses (renting for $5,000 a month) with boarded up and vacant buildings around the corner. That dichotomy is quite evident in Harlem.
The sight of the old Cotton Club, where women were rated by their skin tone (as compared to a brown paper bag) to see if they could perform.
Hank and I on the tour.
Some "street art."
Once the sight of the Renaissance Ballroom, now soon to be the start of a semi-pro Black Basketball League.
Right around the corner, a gorgeous street in Harlem.
Buildings like these once had French doors, but they were turned into windows to prevent break ins in the 80's. You can see the differences in the bricks.
The site of the Savoy, a famous multi-level dancing club in Harlem.The tour was wonderful and very informative. When we were done, we left and headed for the river, but this time it was the Hudson! We boarded a boat and toured the islands of NYC, seeing the Brooklyn Bridge, the Empire State Building and Lady Liberty along the way.
Building #1 of the World Trade CenterWe ended in a restaurant that delivered on the promise of authentic Harlem dining, Amy Ruth's was a delicious Southern home cooking restaurant, and we left stuffed and happy!
Tomorrow we depart NYC for Washington DC. A few more days in the "big cities" and then we will get ready for some country livin'!
We would say that Harlem was a resounding success! I learned some fascinating history but I also gained a great appreciation for the culture and community that is so strong in this vibrant community.
